New Seacliff eatery conjures up the sweet life of Italy.

Cuisine: Very good. Service: Courteous and friendly. Value: Very Good.
Ambiance: Casual and comfortable neighborhood cafe. Cost: Moderate. Lunch entrees range from about $9 to $13. Dinner entrees range from about $15 to $27. 257 Center Ave., Aptos. Open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner. 685-8111. www.labellavitabistro.com.

By Josie Cowden
Sentinel restaurant writer

Sandwiched between Manuel’s Mexican Restaurant and Pizza 1, La Bella Vita Bistro, the new little Italian eatery in Aptos, has much to offer. A stone’s throw from Seacliff State Beach, this cute hideaway has been all decked out Tuscan style — burnt-by-the-sun floor tiles, saffron-colored walls and a cozy ambiance. With only about a dozen tables inside and out, it reminds me of the quaint little trattorias found up the winding old back streets of Siena. Here, you’ll find fresh flowers on every table and a touch of sweet romantic charm.

When I arrive, my friend Josh has already secured a table outside right next to a heater. It’s a balmy night as it is, but the soft glow from the heating lamp adds welcome warmth to an al fresco meal.

Off to a good start with an amuse bouche from the chef, Michael Greer, we enjoy his delicious little treat of very flaky filo pastry with a ragout of two kinds of mushrooms — portabello and shiitake.

Our server Austin welcomes us courteously and then explains a few things on the menu, particularly the wine. "It’s a wine list in the making," he offers, as we look it over. For such a small restaurant, carrying close to four dozen wines is certainly a good start. We waste no time in ordering a local Alfaro Family Vineyards 2005 Pinot Noir ($48). Delicious and voluptuous, this inky purple nectar of red and black fruit is exploding with flavor. I could almost pass on the food and just take in the lovely patio, the calm night air and this excellent wine. But I had skipped lunch and Josh is hungry, so it’s time to see what the kitchen has in store.

We order Risotto Fritters ($6.95), as an antipasto starter. Served with homemade marinara sauce, they’re crunchy on the outside, bursting with fat risotto on the inside, and all basking in a rich tomato sauce. This dish more than meets our expectations.

When Austin reels off the daily specials, two of them get our attention – Fresh Trout ($18.95), which I immediately order, and for Josh a Pasta Alfredo ($17.95) with marinated skirt steak.

The trout is first rate — moist, tender and drenched with flavor. A nutty wild rice accompanies the fish, along with a little mound of tasty mushrooms and some imaginative caramelized carrots. Josh loves his ample portion of pasta, finding it rich and creamy, but not weighted down with sauce. Greer’s cuisine has lots of bold flavoring — without relying too much on salt.

Not all desserts are house-made — the Pumpkin Cheesecake, Chocolate Pecan and Apricot Torte all come from the Farm Bakery in Aptos — so we choose one made by Greer, an Italian Bread Pudding ($6.95). Served in a cocktail glass with a fresh raspberry topping, this nutty, crunchy concoction is superb and not overly sweet.

La Bella Vita is a neighborhood café that is totally comfortable. As I stopped by one night on my way home from a meeting, friends invited me to their table. It was their first time at the restaurant and they said for sure they would return. A chair was pulled up for me and we all happily shared food and wine together — just like the Italians do.

Josie Cowden is a freelance writer, proofreader and wine tour guide. Contact her at ravenone274@comcast.net.